Trust plays a pivotal role in the cosmetic sector. To meet the expectations of health-conscious consumers and those concerned with environmental preservation, companies in this industry must offer consistent production that adheres to current regulations. The implementation of quality controls is vital, both by the relevant authorities and by the brands themselves.
Unlike medications, cosmetic products do not require prior market authorization. Manufacturers must ensure that their products meet legislative and regulatory requirements and pose no health risks. In France, two authorities have the power to oversee professionals in the cosmetic sector.
The ANSM (National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products) in France evaluates the toxicological profile of substances used in cosmetic products. Certain groups of substances, such as endocrine disruptors, receive special attention. This public institution also carries out a cosmetovigilance mission, monitoring adverse effects caused by cosmetic products. It relies on reports from healthcare professionals, industry players, and users.
The DGCCRF (Directorate General for Competition Policy, Consumer Affairs, and Fraud Control) primarily verifies the legality of claims regarding the composition of cosmetic products. In 2020 and 2021, inspections conducted by the DGCCRF identified nearly a third of anomalies. Compliance requests focus particularly on:
The controls conducted by authorities do not replace the vigilance of companies. Regular quality controls are indispensable and address several major issues:
Several analytical methods can be used to ensure some of these quality controls at all stages of the value chain.
Chromatography is a technique that allows the separation of chemical substances present in a homogeneous mixture, whether it is liquid or gaseous. It relies on the differences in behavior between a moving mobile phase and a stationary phase (also called a fixed phase). It is widely used in chemistry and biochemistry to separate, identify, and quantify the components of a sample.
Various chromatographic techniques can be employed in quality control.
High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) separates the components of a mixture using a liquid as the mobile phase. The components move at different speeds through a column filled with a stationary substance, thus creating a separation based on their interactions with this substance.
Liquid-phase Ion Chromatography uses a column filled with an ion-exchange resin as the stationary phase. As the sample is transported through this column by a liquid phase, ions interact with the resin, resulting in their separation based on their charges and affinities for the resin.
In Gas Chromatography, a gas is used as the mobile phase to move components through a column filled with a stationary substance. Components separate based on their volatility and interactions with the stationary substance, allowing precise analysis of different constituents in the mixture.
Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) or Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC) relies on a column filled with porous gel beads as the stationary phase. Larger polymers are excluded from the pore network and pass more quickly through the column, while smaller polymers penetrate the pores and take longer to traverse the column. Thus, GPC/SEC enables the classification of polymers based on their molecular weight.
This technique measures and analyzes the properties of electromagnetic radiation emitted, absorbed, or scattered by matter. Spectrometry can identify components of a sample, determine their concentration, or provide information about their molecular structure. Several spectrometric techniques can be used for quality control in cosmetics.
Inductively Coupled Plasma Optical Emission Spectrometry (ICP-OES) uses a plasma induced by an induction coil to excite the atoms of elements in a liquid sample. This plasma generates characteristic light for each element, which is then analyzed by an optical spectrometer. By measuring the intensities of spectral lines emitted by the plasma, it becomes possible to identify different elements and quantify their concentration in the sample.
UV-Vis Spectrometry uses a source of ultraviolet and visible light that passes through a sample. Molecules in the sample absorb light at specific wavelengths, generating an absorption spectrum. Analyzing this absorption at different wavelengths provides information about the presence and concentration of chemical components in the sample.
In Fourier Transform Infrared Spectrometry (FTIR), an infrared light beam passes through a sample. Molecules in the sample absorb specific amounts of infrared energy, causing molecular vibrations. A detector measures the light’s intensity after passing through the sample. Fourier Transform is then applied to convert these measurements into an infrared spectrum indicating the frequencies of molecular vibrations.
Various chemical analyses are also used for quality control in cosmetics:
Other tests and analyses are regularly used to control the quality of a cosmetic product.
Total Organic Carbon (TOC) technique measures the total amount of carbon in a substance, whether it is in organic or inorganic form.
Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) measures heat changes associated with thermal transitions in a sample, characterizing the thermal properties of substances.
The quality of cosmetic products also relies on choosing partners and suppliers who share values and commitments to good manufacturing practices.
At SOPHIM, quality controls are assured throughout the process using robust analytical methods and high-performance equipment. Each batch of finished product is released only after all analyses are performed and if it conforms to pre-established specifications:
Sophim is also equipped with an OMNIS® automated titration robot (by METROHM) for potentiometric method dosages:
Sophim’s commitment to constant quality control is also reflected in the ISO 22716 certification. This certification commits to mastering the hazards and risks associated with cosmetic products and aims for continuous improvement throughout the supply chain, focusing on customer and partner satisfaction, and the end consumer.
For natural-origin cosmetic ingredients of consistent quality, contact your usual representative to access the catalog, call the teams at (+33)4 92 33 17 17, or send an online message.
Category: Chemical expertise
