Saponification has been known and used empirically since ancient times for soap production. However, the chemical reaction underpinning saponification was identified in 1823 by Michel-Eugène Chevreul, a French chemist. As an eco-friendly and energy-efficient process, saponification supports a cosmetics industry committed to environmental respect. At Sophim, it is one of the key steps in the production of Phytosqualan, a natural emollient with hydrating properties and a non-greasy feel.
Saponification in the production of olive squalane
As a manufacturer of natural-origin cosmetic ingredients, SOPHIM offers products made from plant-based raw materials, prioritising upcycling for resilient and eco-responsible production. Distributed in numerous countries, Phytosqualan is a rich, natural emollient. This hydrocarbon is obtained by hydrogenating squalene, which is naturally present in the skin’s stratum corneum. Non-comedogenic and biocompatible, our plant-derived squalane from olives is suitable for various galenic formulations. Phytosqualan meets the strictest environmental standards with a planet-friendly production process.
From olive to squalane: a green chemistry process
The refining condensates of olive oil, the primary raw material in the production of Phytosqualan, consist of approximately 14% unsaponifiable molecules (including 10% squalene) and 86% saponifiable molecules.
Saponifiable molecules contain an ester bond, formed between a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and an alcohol group (-OH) by the removal of a water molecule (H2O). Triglycerides are the most well-known saponifiable compounds, but other molecules, such as phospholipids, can also undergo saponification. Vegetable oils and butters are frequently used in hygiene and beauty products.
Unsaponifiables are compounds that do not undergo any saponification process. However, the unsaponifiable fraction of a vegetable oil or fat is often rich in high-value molecules, which are used in cosmetic products. Vitamins, for instance, are unsaponifiable compounds, as is the squalene found in olives.
The production of Phytosqualan from olive oil involves several steps:
- Esterification adds weight to saponifiable molecules by combining them with an alcohol to form triglycerides;
- Distillation takes advantage of the differing boiling points of molecules to separate heavier triglycerides from the lighter unsaponifiable fraction;
- Saponification separates any remaining saponifiable residues after distillation, yielding an ingredient almost exclusively composed of unsaponifiables;
- Hydrogenation transforms squalene (C₃₀H₅₀) into squalane (C₃₀H₆₂) by adding dihydrogen, creating a more stable, saturated compound that is less prone to oxidation;
- Purification includes several processes (winterisation, stripping, and silica gel purification), resulting in a stable, colourless, and odourless ingredient.
The saponification process
If the product obtained after distillation is rich in squalene, it still contains saponifiable residues that need to be removed.
This is the role of saponification, which involves mixing saponifiable compounds (oils or fats) with an alkaline solution (potash, lye, etc.). During the chemical reaction, ester bonds in triglycerides (or other saponifiable molecules) react with a metal hydroxide to form carboxylates, the main active compounds in soaps. Carboxylates exhibit surfactant properties, are water-soluble, and provide good chemical stability.
At SOPHIM, the use of potassium hydroxide (KOH) in saponification creates two immiscible phases:
- An upper oily phase composed of unsaponifiables, with a high squalene content;
- A denser lower phase composed of olive soaps, resulting from the saponification process.
The difference in density between the two phases facilitates separation by decantation.
Saponification: a process aligned with green chemistry
Our production process for Phytosqualan adheres to a green chemistry approach, respecting the environment and conserving resources. Saponification enables the extraction of an almost pure unsaponifiable fraction, rich in squalene. The soap by-products of this process are repurposed within a circular economy framework.
The reaction is equimolar, allowing for a complete reaction without excess reagents: 1 mole of potassium hydroxide (KOH) reacts with 1 mole of saponifiable compound to produce 1 mole of soap.
Sophim, producer of natural cosmetic ingredients
Texture agents, emollients, fixatives, and cosmetic vegetable oils: Sophim develops an innovative range of natural-origin cosmetic ingredients, produced in Europe (France and Spain) and adhering to green chemistry principles. Our COSMOS NATURAL, COSMOS ORGANIC, NATRUE, and HALAL-certified products meet the expectations of cosmetic brands that share our values, seeking ingredients that harmonise health and environmental responsibility without compromising on sensory appeal and efficacy.
Partner with a committed team to provide your clients with cosmetics made from the finest ingredients. Contact our team by phone at (+33)4 92 33 17 17, or send us a message online via our Contact page.